My 45-mins fugon journey to Korce snaked southwards into the hills, and at only 200 Lek (£1.05) was a bargain. I had found my planned accommodation by posting a request on the TripAdvisor Albania Forum — Bujtina Sidheri. Owned by Jani, it’s a traditional house amidst old cobbled streets; with four guest rooms, all exquisitely furnished with traditional items. This morning I had my best breakfast in all of Albania. Comprising many courses, including a curious poridge which contained cubed cheese, crispy bread and an array of different seads — and all in front of a blazing wood fire!

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