My first spell in Tirana is over — after such good times with friends. Rachel and I set off from the city at the crack of dawn: taxi, fugon and boat. The boat left from the hydro-electric dam at Koman following a 30km route through deep gorges, some 1,500m high. The boat was characterful — it comprised a steel flat-bottomed hull with a motor coach body nestled into it — the steering wheel exchanged for a ships wheel!

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