The National Theatre of Albania built in 1939 had the feel, the smell, and ambience of the post-communist city. Rachel and I attended a most obscure play, not a word understood by me — but I was riveted for two hours! Everywhere in the city, there are echoes of Hoxha’s 41-year communist leadership. As I visit year by year, curiously these evidences are gradually being air-brushed away. Hiding at the rear of the National Art Gallery I found statues of former communist leaders, concealed from public gaze. 

My last evening in Tirana was spent with Marko & Greta, two up and coming architect designers soon to be married — good friends. 

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