I enjoyed an easy mid-day flight to Hania, where I stayed overnight at the Arkardi. At 8.30am the follow morning I set off for Sfakia over the White Mountains to the SW Coast. My ferry left on the dot at 11 for the 20 minute journey to Loutro, where I was met by Michalis who took me by dinghy to Lykos, my three-taverna hideaway. My first Greek salad with Theo’s mizithra cheese was wonderful!